Day 15 - Burnt Porridge Bay / Croabh Haven / Kilmartin / Crinan Canal / Tarbert / Ferry to Lochranza

Our route south was with the Oban/Lochgilphead commuter traffic which, as you can imagine, posed no great threat. The trouble with wild camping is the lack of facilities, especially hot water for a good wash. However, as luck would have it, a short distance down the road was Craobh Haven. This modern marina is built around a collection of time-share villas, resembling an old fishing village in a strange architectural blend. I knew there were showers available in the marina and prepared to blag my way in. We both enjoyed good hot showers without anyone bothering us, all for just 50p. We finished our visit with hot chocolate and cake in the café before heading south on the A816. Despite it being a 'long-drag', the hills and traffic were manageable.

Its the Crinan for me!

We made time for a detour to go along the Crinan Canal, a very pleasant experience. Quiet and picturesque, we had joined the canal a few miles from Crinan itself which sits at its sea-end. Sipping tea and scones at the Crinan Basin we watched the puffer VIC32 move into the sea lock and out into open sea. Soon after we scooted off at a fair speed back along the full length of the towpath. At the Lochgilphead ‘The Vital Spark’ was lying very neglected looking at the bottom lock. Chris was bemused by my excitement over this rusty wreck, but I tried to convince him it was as good as a national monument, heart-felt nostalgia for every Scot who grew up watching it on TV in the early '60s.

Oh! The Crinan Canal for me,
I don't like the wild raging sea,
It would be too terrific to cross the Pacific,
Or sail to Japan or Fiji.
A life on the Spanish Main,I think it would drive me insane,
The big foaming breakers would give me the shakers,
The Crinan Canal for me.

CHORUS:

Oh! The Crinan Canal for me,
I don't like the wild raging sea,
The big foaming breakers would give me the shakers,
The Crinan Canal for me.

It's the Crinan Canal for me,
From sea terrors there you are free,
There's no shark or whale that would make you turn pale,
Or shiver or shake at the knee.
I would nae like leavin' ma bones,
In a locker beside Davy Jones,From Ardrishaig to Crinan's the best trip A'hve bin in,
The Crinan Canal for me.

CHORUS

Aye the Crinan Canal for me,
It's neither too big nor too wee,
Oh! It's lovely and calm when you're frying your ham,
Or makin' a nice cup of tea.
You can go for a stroll on its banks,
To loosen your muscle bound shanks,
You can darn your socks while you're still in its locks,
The Crinan Canal for me.

CHORUS

The above rendition of this song was found on YouTube. I believe the singer to be John Grieve playing the part of Dan McPhail, the engineer, in the classic TV series 'The Vital Spark' (1959, 65-6 & 73-74) based on the Para Handy Tales by Neil Munro

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From Lochgilphead the road follows the shores of Loch Fyne, remaining level as it hugs the water’s edge until Tarbert. The port of Tarbert, tucked in a snug dip in the hills, was more interesting than expected despite its frayed edges. Once a prosperous fishing port, its grandeur was now distinctly faded

He who calls the ferry, pays!

Curious about what lay around the next corner, we kept going and ended up at Kennacraig ferry terminal. Knackered, we searched for a place to wild camp, but nothing suitable appeared. With slight dread, we tackled the Mull of Kintyre Mountains again, this time heading towards Claonaig. The road was no better for the second time of doing.
Despite slipping into the woods occasionally for a suitable camping place, all we found was a hosts of midges lying in ambush. To add to our woes, it started to rain quite heavily. The next place to aim for was the ferry 'bus shelter' at Claonaig and to spend the night there.
We thought that the ferry would not be running this late into a Saturday evening. It was with absolute amazement that after on cresting a hill, that we saw in the distance that the ferry was sitting on the slipway, a lone car being loaded on it was the big insentive to get a 'move on'. No sooner had we looked at each other and smiled, when the ramp went up and the ferry started to move off. Chris had the foresight to wave and shout at the ferry – a wave of desperation if there ever was one, much to our amazement the ferry reversed back and dropped its ramp. This was our big break and very soon Chris was hugging the big ferryman, as for the second time it made its way for the last run of the day. This was our last ferry using our rover ticket and CalMac Ferries had been simply brilliant throughout our trip.

Our last night

We arrival at Lochranza in heavy rain. Tiredness did not help our mood. The first stop was the Youth Hostel and after fighting our way through a full car park to the reception desk we had the horror of being told that it was not just the car park that was 'full'.
So off we went in a wasted tour of the local B&Bs and ended up at the entrance the Lochranza campsite. The site looked very uninviting in the fine drizzle.
It took me no further persuading when Chris suggested we try the Lochranza Hotel. So that’s where we ended up, with the best room in the house, a balcony overlooking the bay and the castle. It had been a long tiring day and after a good meal in the busy bar we happily retired.